Centipedegrass (Eremochloa ophiuroides) is a slow-growing, apple-green colored, coarse-leaved turfgrass that is adapted for utilize equally a depression maintenance, general purpose turf. Information technology requires little fertilizer, infrequent mowing, and volition tolerate moderate shade. Nonetheless, in order for centipedegrass to grow well, it needs at to the lowest degree 6 hours of total sun. Information technology does non tolerate traffic, compaction, high phosphorus soils, loftier soil pH, low-potassium soils, excessive thatch, drought, or heavy shade. Run into HGIC 1209, Centipedegrass for boosted data on care and cultivar selection.

Centipedegrass is a slow-growing, apple-green colored, coarse-leaved, low maintenance turfgrass.

Centipedegrass is a dull-growing, apple-greenish colored, fibroid-leaved, low maintenance turfgrass.
Bert McCarty, ©2015, Clemson University

Producing a yearly maintenance calendar for managing turfgrass consistently yr after year can be difficult in a land with such a diverse climate as Due south Carolina. Because of this, information technology is important to monitor temperatures and apply the needed management practices based on that year'south climate. Important times to monitor the conditions are during late winter or early on jump when the turf is coming out of dormancy and early fall when the offset frost is forecasted. Last frost dates and first frost dates can vary past several weeks to a month from coastal areas of South Carolina to the foothills of the Upstate.

This turfgrass maintenance calendar may exist used on turf grown throughout the state; however, management practices may need to be adjusted based on the year'southward climate and the region where the turf is grown.

January through April

Mowing: Mow the lawn slightly lower than the regular summer mowing height. The mower setting should be effectually 1-inch loftier. Exist careful non to gear up the mower too low, equally it might scalp the lawn. This height reduction should be washed just before the time of lawn green-upwards, which usually occurs during belatedly April or early May. If possible, use a mower with a bagger to collect the clippings and remove any dead material left from winter dormancy. Be certain to use a sharpened mower bract. Alternatively, the lawn can exist mitt raked to remove the excessive expressionless leaf material from the backyard surface.

A precipitous mower blade will cleanly cut the grass blades every bit opposed to tearing the leaves. Ho-hum mower blades rip rather than cut the grass and brand the grass more susceptible to diseases. Acuminate the mower blade annually or every bit needed.

The date of initial turf greenish-upwards can be quite variable. In the coastal and more Southern regions of Due south Carolina, this generally will occur sometime during April, only further inland, this may exist every bit late every bit mid-May. It is not unusual for centipedegrass to dark-green up and be burnt back several times during the late winter or early jump due to late season frosts. Because of possible injury to the lawn and the potential fire gamble, practise not burn off centipedegrass to remove excessive debris. For more information on mowing, refer to HGIC 1205, Mowing Lawns.

Thatch Removal: If a thatch layer becomes a problem, use a dethatcher or vertical mower to remove it. Consider dethatching centipedegrass when the thatch layer is greater than ¼ inch. For best results, employ a dethatcher with a 2- or three-inch blade spacing set a ¼-inch depth. Do non utilise a power rake with a 1-inch blade spacing, as severe turf injury may result. Apply a lawn mower with a bag fastened or hand rake to collect and properly dispose the turf material pulled upwardly. For more than information on thatch removal, meet HGIC 2360, Decision-making Thatch in Lawns.

Aerification: Core aeration is the process of punching small holes in the turf and into the soil to alleviate compaction, thus allowing air to get to the root system. This volition assist to right problems associated with poor infiltration and drainage. Once the threat for frost has passed and the backyard has fully greened-upwards, lawn aerification may be combined with dethatching to alleviate whatsoever soil compaction issues.

However, if a pre-emergent herbicide was applied during late February to mid-March, postpone whatever cultivation practices that will disturb the soil until but before the next pre-emergent herbicide application appointment. Pre-emergent herbicides will create a bulwark that keeps weed seeds from germinating. Disturbing the soil later on an application will let weeds to sally through this bulwark. For more than information on aerification, refer to HGIC 1200, Aerating Lawns and HGIC 1226, Turfgrass Cultivation.

Weed Control: To control crabgrass, goosegrass, sandspurs, and other summer annual weeds, apply a pre-emergent herbicide early in the twelvemonth. Estimate application times are mid-February in the coastal and fundamental areas and mid-March in the piedmont/mountain areas. A 2nd awarding is needed approximately 8 to x weeks afterward the initial application to give season long control of almanac grassy and broadleaf, warm-season weeds.

Apply selective mail-emergent herbicides as needed to control existing winter grassy and broadleaf weeds. In general, exercise not use post-emergent herbicides during the spring green up of the turf. If a weed problem begins and the grass has begun to green with warmer temperatures, await until the grass has fully greened before applying a mail service-emergent herbicide. In the concurrently, mow and bag the weeds. Centipedegrass is sensitive to certain herbicides, such equally 2,iv-D, non only during spring light-green upwardly, only during hot summer temperatures. Follow label directions for use of whatsoever herbicide and employ with caution during these times. For more data on weed control, delight see HGIC 2310, Managing Weeds in Warm-Season Lawns.

Insect Control: Common cold winter temperatures will commonly aid keep insect problems at bay. As temperatures start to warm in belatedly spring, monitor for mole cricket activeness. If mole cricket action is observed, apply a backyard insecticide if harm is excessive. If the harm is minimal, wait before applying an insecticide. This is not the all-time time to apply an insecticide for insect command because of cool soil temperatures and reduced insect activeness. However, an early spring warm-up can atomic number 82 to pregnant mole cricket activity. Heavy populations can exist reduced through appropriately timed insecticide treatments during this period. For more information on mole cricket, see HGIC 2155, Mole Cricket Direction in Turfgrass.

If grubs (the white larvae of beetles, such as Japanese beetles) take been a problem in previous years, monitor for grubs by cutting a square foot piece of sod on iii sides and peel it back. If more six grubs are found under the sod piece, apply a lawn insecticide labelled for grub command according to label directions. For more information on white grub management, encounter HGIC 2156, White Grub Direction in Turfgrass.

Fertilization: Fertilization of centipedegrass should exist based on soil test results, and this is a practiced time to test soil. However, fertilizers containing nitrogen should not be applied during this menses. If new turfgrass growth is encouraged by fertilization during the early spring, and information technology is followed by a late frost, this tin can effect in significant damage to the lawn. Come across HGIC 1652, Soil Testing for instructions on how to properly exercise a soil test.

Irrigation: During dormancy, h2o the backyard to preclude excessive aridity. Winter desiccation tin can be a problem during dry out winters. Watering to forbid drought stress tin assistance eliminate turf loss during winter.

Most areas of Due south Carolina receive enough rainfall during the winter to avoid wintertime desiccation of lawns. However, this is not always the case. Monitor the winter rainfall on a regular basis and utilize water to the turf if no measurable pelting occurs over a three to 4 calendar week period. This is especially of import if warm, vivid days precede days forecasted to exist in the low xx's or colder. The added moisture in the soil volition help keep the growing points of the turf warmer, preventing crown death.

To manage a lawn, it is of import to know the soil texture in the top foot of soil. Sandy soils do not hold moisture well since they drain freely and dry out quicker. Clay soils, notwithstanding, will hold moisture for a longer period of time. Do not permit the lawn to stay excessively wet if the backyard has a clay soil. If the soil stays saturated all winter, this can cause many other problems. A soil probe can exist used to monitor the soil moisture. For more information, refer to HGIC 1207, Watering Lawns and HGIC 1225, Conserving Turfgrass Irrigation.

May Through August

Mowing: The ideal mowing height for centipedegrass is from 1 to two inches, depending on the specific site and management regime and is all-time determined by the weather in the lawn. Lawns in partial shade are better mowed at ii inches high.

Starting time the flavour past mowing the backyard at a acme of ii inches based on a demote mark setting. This is the measured distance from the mower blade to a difficult surface and can easily be determined by using a small-scale ruler. Over the next several mowings, gradually reduce the mowing height in equally small an increment as possible. Monitor the lawn after each mowing. Once a height is reached where the grass does not expect good anymore, it looks too sparse or scalped, raise the mowing acme back to the previous setting.

During periods of environmental stress due to loftier temperatures or a lack of rainfall, raise the mowing tiptop ½ to 1 inch until the stress is eliminated. Always mow with a sharp blade using a mulching blazon mower, which leaves the clippings to decompose on the turf. The mower blade needs to be sharpened on a regular footing – commonly virtually once a month or at least before the growing flavour starts. If the bag is picking up soil, especially sand, when the lawn is mowed, then the blade may need to be sharpened more than oft than one time a month.

Fertilization: E'er fertilize and add lime or sulfur based on a soil test. Centipedegrass volition abound best at a pH of v.5 to 6.0. Many soils along the coastal plains and into the midlands of South Carolina have soil a pH college than what centipedegrass prefers. If a soil test shows a higher pH, sulfur can be applied to lower it. Apply 5 pounds of pelletized sulfur per one thousand square anxiety of turf. Apply sulfur only when the air temperatures are below 75 °F. In 3 months, recheck the soil pH to see what change was made. Information technology may take several years for a large pH change to occur. Soils in the Upstate are typically acidic and commonly do not need sulfur.

Established centipedegrass should not receive phosphorus fertilizer unless a soil exam indicates that it is deficient. Centipede lawns should receive 1 to 2 pounds of actual nitrogen per year per 1000 square feet of turf. The higher rate may be called for centipedegrass lawns on sandy soils and the lower rate for lawns growing on clay soils. Applying more two pounds of nitrogen per thou foursquare feet per yr may exist harmful to the centipede turf by creating excessive thatch and increasing the risk of turfgrass illness.

Early Summertime: Apply ½ to 1 pound of actual nitrogen per 1,000 foursquare anxiety in early May subsequently the lawn fully greens upward. The rate will depend on soil blazon. A soil test will help determine if a fertilizer containing phosphorous is required for all-time growth of the turf. See the section on fertilizer calculations below to determine how much granular fertilizer needs to be applied.

Late Summer: Fertilize with ½ to 1 pound of actual nitrogen per 1,000 foursquare feet depending on the soil type using a high potassium fertilizer, such equally

15-0-15. Make this last fertilizer application before August fifteen in the Upstate and before September 1 along the declension. Potassium is needed late in the growing flavor as the grass goes into dormancy for added affliction protection and wintertime hardiness.

Nutrient Deficiencies: A xanthous appearance during the growing season may point an atomic number 26 deficiency due to excessive phosphorus and/or a high soil pH. A long-term approach is needed to correct either cause, merely iron tin can be added to quickly raise turf colour betwixt the bound and summer fertilizer applications.

Annotation: A yellow appearance may as well arise in early jump. This could point an iron or manganese deficiency due to soil temperatures lagging backside air temperatures, high pH soils, or loftier phosphorous levels. Spraying with liquid iron (ferrous sulfate) at ii ounces in iii to 5 gallons of water per ane,000 square feet or applying a chelated atomic number 26 product will aid to enhance turf colour. Fertilizing with a micronutrient fertilizer, such equally manganese sulfate, can assist alleviate manganese deficiencies. However, as the soil temperatures start to climb, the yellowing should slowly get abroad. Lime or sulfur may also be added if a soil examination indicates a need. Be aware, it could take several months for lime and sulfur applications to brainstorm to impact the soil pH.

Fertilizer Calculations: To determine the amount of granular fertilizer needed to utilise ½ pound of actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet, divide 50 by the first number on the fertilizer pocketbook. To determine the corporeality of product required to apply 1 pound of actual nitrogen per 1,000 foursquare feet, separate 100 by the first number on the fertilizer bag. This volition give the number of pounds of product to apply to 1000 square feet of turf. See HGIC 1201, Fertilizing Lawns for more data.

Irrigation: Water to preclude drought stress. Monitor the lawn on a regular basis to assess the need for irrigation. When the entire backyard appears dry, apply ¾ to i inch of h2o the next morning. Wait to irrigate again when the lawn shows moisture stress. In that location are several ways to make up one's mind when the lawn needs watering. One way is to monitor the lawn daily. When the turf begins to dry, it will appear to have a bluish color. Another method is to walk across the lawn tardily in the evening. If the grass blades in the footprints rebound, there is plenty of wet in the turf. If the grass in the footprints exercise not rebound, then h2o the side by side morning.

The irrigation interval will vary from site to site depending on the environmental atmospheric condition at that site and soil type. The general rule for turfgrass irrigation is to h2o "deeply and infrequently". Localized dry spots or hot spots can be watered by paw as needed. For more than data on turfgrass watering, see HGIC 1225, Bourgeois Turfgrass Irrigation.

Insect Control: In that location are various insects that may assault centipedegrass during the summertime months. Mole crickets, spittlebugs, grubs, footing pearls, as well as nematodes, can cause considerable damage. Each pest problem has its own management strategy and is usually handled with cultural and chemic controls. Yet, there can be exceptions. Mole cricket and grub eggs will unremarkably hatch mid-summer. An insecticide application targeted at the smaller nymphs is the most effective control even if damage has not yet occurred. If either of these insects was a trouble early in the flavor, utilise an insecticide in mid-July to control the younger young insects.

If an insect problem occurs, it is important to positively identify the problem and select the advisable insecticide to apply. Contact the local County Extension Role or the Abode & Garden Information Center for positive identification and proper direction strategies. Meet fact sheets HGIC 2156, Whitegrub Direction in Turfgrass, HGIC 2155, Mole Cricket Management in Turfgrass, and HGIC 2488, Two-lined Spittlebug.

Disease Command: The most mutual affliction that affects centipedegrass during the growing season is large patch, formerly known as brown patch. Large patch is a fungal disease that is active during warm, humid spring and fall weather. Since it is fueled by moisture, information technology is of import use proper watering practices, as well every bit provide acceptable drainage.

If the turf does stay wet, circular yellowish to brown areas may start to develop and slowly grow in size. Later, the center of the circle may start to re-dark-green. In heavily infested turf, the rings may grow together and no longer appear circular. If the turf at the edge of the dying surface area shows a smoky brown, rotted appearance, it will be necessary to utilize a fungicide treatment. Overall, proper water direction and thatch command are essential to curtail large patch problems. Additionally, fertilize the centipede backyard according to recent soil test recommendations. For more information, see HGIC 2150, Brown Patch & Big Patch Diseases of Lawns.

Weed Command: A selective, almanac grass or broadleaf weed control pre-emergent herbicide that is labeled for use on centipedegrass and applied during late winter and spring will reduce many weeds the following summer. If a pre-emergent herbicide was not applied in the spring, the resulting weeds will demand to be controlled using mail service-emergent herbicides.

Use a product containing the agile ingredient sethoxydim to control annual grassy weeds, such as crabgrass, goosegrass, and sandspurs. Sedges, or nut grass, are controlled by using a production containing the agile ingredient imazaquin. Broadleaf summer weeds, such as spurge and annual lespedeza are controlled past using a broadleaf weed herbicide, which is sometimes referred to as a 3-way mix and contains 2,iv-D, dicamba, and mecoprop. Centipedegrass is sensitive to certain herbicides, such every bit 2,four-D, and so follow characterization directions and apply with caution. Always utilise herbicides to turfgrass and weeds that are actively growing and are non suffering from drought or heat stress. Do not use herbicides unless turfgrass and weeds are actively growing and are not suffering from drought or heat stress. Do not apply herbicides to the backyard if the temperature is over 90 °F. Use herbicides with caution while the turf is emerging from winter dormancy as well. Practice not mow the lawn 3 days prior or 2 days afterwards application. As with all pest control, proper weed identification is essential. Contact the local Canton Extension Office or the Abode & Garden Information Eye for identification and control of weeds in the lawn. For more than information on weed control, encounter HGIC 2310, Managing Weeds in Warm Season Lawns.

Renovation: Replant large bare areas in May using sod, seed (¼ to ½ pound per 1,000 square anxiety) or sprigs (5 bushels per 1,000 square feet). Mixing seed with ii gallons of fine sand per ane,000 square feet volition aid in distribution. Formation is expected in 28 days and establishment is boring. To ensure skilful germination, keep the seedbed moist with light, frequent sprinklings several times a day. It is non uncommon for it to have three years for a new lawn from seed to become uniform and dense. For more information, refer to HGIC 1204, Lawn Renovation.

September through December

Mowing: Keep to mow the centipedegrass lawn at the normal mowing peak until the weather starts to cool in the fall. Once nighttime temperatures fall below 70 °F, raise the mower blade pinnacle to approximately two inches to permit for more leaf surface. This will let the turf to go acclimated by the time the commencement frost occurs.

Fertilization: Do not apply nitrogen at this time. Lime or sulfur may be added if recommended by a contempo soil test. Potassium, commonly known as potash, may be applied to enhance winter hardiness if a recent soil test indicates insufficient levels of potassium. Use ane pound of potash (K2O) per 1,000 square feet four to 6 weeks before the first expected frost by using ane.6 pounds of muriate of potash (0-0-60) or 2 pounds of potassium sulfate (0-0-50) per m square feet.

Irrigation: In the absence of rainfall, go on to water the lawn to prevent drought stress. After the backyard has get dormant, water as needed to prevent excessive dehydration. This is especially important if warm, vivid days preceed days forecasted to be in the low 20's or lower.

Insect Control: Whatsoever insects that were missed during the nymphal phase in the summer will accept grown to a size where damage is occurring. Employ an insecticide to reduce the population and reduce farther turf damage. This is best done before the first frost.

Disease Control: For affliction control, peculiarly big patch, it is extremely important to care for with fungicides during the fall months. With warm temperatures through September and the possibility of excessive rainfall that may occur during that period, diseases can spread chop-chop. However, with cooler nights and shorter solar day lengths, control tin exist quite difficult considering of slow turf recovery during this time. Turf weakened by disease in fall will be slow to recover in the jump; therefore, fungicide applications are needed to control disease earlier the grass goes dormant. In certain situations where big patch has been prevalent yearly, preventative fungicide applications may be needed starting in early on October to stay ahead of the affliction. For more information on disease control, please see HGIC 2150, Brown Patch & Large Patch Diseases of Lawns .

Weed Command: Many winter annual grassy and broadleaf weeds can be managed by applying a pre-emergent herbicide in September with a 2d application 8 to 10 weeks afterwards. Follow all characterization directions on the product for application rate. Granular herbicides must exist watered into the soil presently later on application. Follow label directions as to postal service application watering.

Selective, post-emergent herbicides can be practical as necessary for control of chickweed, henbit, and other cool-season broadleaf weeds. Centipedegrass is sensitive to certain herbicides, such equally 2,4-D, so follow label directions for reduced rates and use with circumspection. Spray sufficiently to wet the leafage, but practice not spray excessively. Repeat application in 10 to 14 days, if needed. Selected herbicides can also be practical in the winter for control of annual bluegrass and other wintertime annual grassy weeds. Contact the local County Extension office or the Abode & Garden Information Eye for weed identification and control measures.

Originally published 04/04